2014 was all swings and roundabouts – or is it snakes and ladders? – among Paris’s haute-cuisine restaurants. Discreet three-star chef Christian Le Squer from Ledoyen was brought into the grandiose dining room at the Four Seasons George V, and it’s clearly paid off, as one of the two new Michelin three stars announced in February 2016. By far the mostastonishing element when I had lunch here was the sea urchin ice ball that looks like a snowball and tastes like the sea, and among other inventions are a revisited onion soup. A main course of pigeon was a little dull in comparison, though proudly Breton Le Squer clearly excels with fish, and likes sea/fruit combinations. The wine list is superb, and unlike many star chefs with global empires, Le Squer is hands on and does a tour of the tables during the meal.
Address: 45 quai des Grands-Augustins, 75006 Contact: 0033 1 49 52 71 54; restaurant-lecinq.com/en Getting there: George V Opening times: daily, 12.30pm-2.30pm, 7pm-10pm Price: lunch menu from €145, dinner menu €310; à la carte around €250 Payment type: credit cards accepted Cuisine: French, Seafood Reservations: recommended