5 Décembre 2016
This place has ranked pretty high up my favourite restaurants ever since I first came here in the 1990s and wowed over its generously overflowing cheese tray. The cheese tray, pine wainscotting and checked napkins, the serve-yourself vat of herring fillets and veal kidneys that speak of another era are still here but Astier also knows how to live with the times. The room has recently been opened up with new lighting and a bar, where you can have snacks at the counter, while chef Mathieu Le Tirrand has lightened the sauces and favours low-temperature cooking. Owner Frédéric Hubag maintains the tradition of a superb wine list (especially from Burgundy and the Rhône), service is affable and the mood leisurely and welcoming for a clientele that ranges from young arty types to multi-generational families and elderly couples. There’s always a nice welcome for children here; they’ll even do a kids’ version of the rum baba – without the rum. Note that after a fire in the kitchen, Astier will be closed until at least the end of April, so check before coming.
Address: 44 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 75011 Contact: 00331 43 54 61 47; chezfernand-guisarde.com Getting there: Oberkampf Opening times: daily, 12.30pm-2.30pm, 7pm-10.30pm (11pm on Sat) Price: set-price menus €35 and €45; lunch-time plat du jour €15 Payment type: credit cards accepted Cuisine: French Reservations: recommended