Pony-tailed British chef Richard Robe worked at a host of top French restaurants, including Taillevent and Atelier Robuchon, before coming to this restaurant hidden off the Champs-Elysées. With a stained glass verrière by Gustave Eiffel and two long curved banquettes that create an oval dining room, the mood is pleasantly casual, rather than the sometimes off-putting formality of hotel restaurants, though the cooking is perfectly serious. A langoustine carpaccio is a brilliant visual surprise, to match the modern art on the walls, and I also liked the seasonal vegetables braised in beef jus, with bone marrow toast, and turbot with roast mini artichokes. There’s a good wine list – though it could do with more choice by the glass – and also a stylish cocktail bar.
Address: Hôtel Vernet, 25 rue Vernet, 75008 Contact: 0033 1 44 31 98 00; hotelvernet-paris.fr/restaurant Getting there: Charles de Gaulle-Etoile Opening times: Mon-Fri, midday-2pm, 7.30pm-11pm; Sat, 7.30pm-11pm Price: lunch menu €39; à la carte around €55 Payment type: credit cards accepted Cuisine: French Reservations: recommended