5 Décembre 2016
Bertrand Grébaut is one of the rising young stars of French cuisine, with a restaurant that’s always full, a phone that’s never answered, a Michelin star, and a wine shop offshoot around the corner. In a revolt against the stuffiness of grand restaurants, the look here is distressed bistro casual and industrial lighting, but the cuisine is polished, complex and painstakingly mastered. He changes his menu every day, with a focus on vegetables – no doubt learned from his stint at Alain Passard’s Arpège – and offers a no-choice, six-stage menu at dinner. Reserve on the web well ahead for dinner, though there’s more chance of a table for lunch, or try its brilliant new seafood offshoot, Clamato, two doors up, which doesn’t take reservations and is open at weekends.
Address: 80 rue de Charonne, 75011 Contact: 0033 1 43 67 38 29; septime-charonne.fr Getting there: Metro Ledru-Rollin Opening times: Mon, 7.30pm-10pm; Tue-Fri, 12.30pm-2pm, 7pm-10.30pm Price: set-price menu €28 for lunch, €55 for dinner Payment type: credit cards accepted Cuisine: French Reservations: essential