Régalade Conservatoire

Jean-Michel Wilmotte’s décor obeys all the codes of bistro style, in a sleek dining room with black and white checkerboard floor

The original Régalade in the 14th arrondissement was the forerunner of the bistronomique trend and the return to terroir, first under Yves Camdeborde, then Bruno Doucet. This third incarnation is in a stylish new hotel, where Jean-Michel Wilmotte’s décor obeys all the codes of bistro style, in a sleek dining room with black and white checkerboard floor. Like its parent, quality regional ingredients take pride of place in dishes like pumpkin soup, braised beef cheeks or pollack with turnip ribbons, and it’s doing very well, though it’s a pity there isn’t a cheaper lunchtime menu. Finish with the now-classic Grand Marnier soufflé, or the homely rice pudding « like my grandmother made it ».

Address: 7 rue du Conservatoire, 75009 Contact: 0033 1 44 83 83 60; hoteldenell.com Getting there: Metro Bonne Nouvelle Opening times: Mon-Fri, midday-2pm, 7pm-10.45pm; Sat, 7pm-10.45pm Price: set-price menu €37 for lunch and dinner Payment type: credit cards accepted Cuisine: French Reservations: recommended