Pierre Gagnaire

Pierre Gagnaire is one of the most inventive French chefs around today Credit: Alamy

A discovery trail of French cuisine from one of the most inventive chefs around today, who often finds inspiration in painting and jazz. The pared-back dining room provides the stage for a panoply of dishes, from minuscule appetisers – a tuna meringue, a clam with diced veg – to a whirlwind of desserts, all propelled by a fleet of lithe waiters. Although Pierre Gagnaire is often associated with molecular cuisine in his collaborations with scientist Hervé, this is real food, not froths and foams, with perfect seasoning and an extraordinary variety of flavours and textures. The lunch menu is a relatively affordable way to sample this extraordinary cuisine.

Address: Four Seasons George V, 31 avenue George V, 75008 Contact: 0033 1 58 36 12 50; pierre-gagnaire.com Getting there: Metro George V Opening times: Mon-Fri, midday-1.30pm, 7.30pm-9.30pm Price: set-price menus €150 for lunch, €295 for dinner Payment type: credit cards accepted Cuisine: French Reservations: essential