Les Enfants Rouges

Japanese chefs producing first-rate French cuisine are a real phenomenon in Paris at the moment. The latest is Daï Shinozuka, formerly with Yves Camdeborde at Le Relais du Comptoir, and his wife, who have taken over this red-fronted bistro opposite the Marche des Enfants Rouge. She serves, he cooks and occasionally brings out the dishes himself. Expertly seasoned salmon with stewed oxtail, and free-range chicken with frothy lobster sauce, show he likes land-sea mixes, although he can also do a straightfoward steak with shallots and potato purée. The restaurant is already on the bush telegraph – when I had lunch here, a gaggle of Japanese were also dining – so reserve.

Address: 9 rue de Beauce, 75003 Contact: 0033 1 48 87 80 61; les-enfants-rouge.fr Getting there: Metro St-Sébastien-Froissart Opening times: Thu-Mon, midday-2pm, 7pm-10pm Price: set-price menu €35 Payment type: credit cards accepted Cuisine: French Reservations: recommended