5 Décembre 2016
Self-taught chef Inaki Aizpitarte is a phenomenon and you can see why. I love the contrast between the 1930s bistro setting, casual mood and famously handsome stubbly waiters and the finesse that arrives from the kitchen in a surprise menu handed out on A4 photocopied paper. I’m often wary of no-choice menus, but Aizpitarte’s instinctive, creative cooking is as good as ever, with its mastery of different textures and sometimes ingenious simplicity – including on my last visit asparagus with elderflower, and delicate sweetbreads. What is ostensibly five courses is actually much more, with amuse-gueules to pick up, drink or suck through a straw. Reservations are essential, opening 21 days ahead, or try to squeeze in for tapas at Aizpitarte’s Carrara marble Le Dauphin next door, designed by Rem Koolhaas.
Address: 129 avenue Parmentier, 75011 Contact: 0033 1 43 57 45 95; lechateaubriand.net Getting there: Metro Goncourt Opening times: Tue-Sat, 7.30pm-11pm Price: set-price menu €70 Payment type: credit cards accepted Cuisine: French Reservations: essential