5 Décembre 2016
Fish is often notoriously expensive in Paris but this restaurant, in a modern part of Montparnasse, has long been one of Paris’s bargains, drawing a faithful clientele. André Robert has taken over from longtime owner-chef Gérard Allemandou but the standard remains: fresh fish and shellfish in preparations so minimalist they sometimes shock at first – tiny buttery clams, grilled razor shells, baby soles with new potatoes, mackerel in mustard sauce – but perfectly timed. Add excellent service, a wine list focused on the Loire and Burgundy, an outstanding collection of Cognacs, and a spacious terrace in summer. It recently opened an oyster shack, Le Cabanon de l’Ecailler (open Tue-Sat), next door.
Address: 10 place Constantin-Brancusi, 75014 Contact: 0033 1 43 22 09 01; la-cagouille.fr Getting there: Metro Gaîté Opening times: Daily, midday-2.30pm, 7.30pm-11pm Price: set-price menus from €29 for lunch and dinner Payment type: credit cards accepted Cuisine: French, seafood Reservations: recommended