5 Décembre 2016
Between leaving Thoumieux and opening the ever-so-modestly named Le Grand Restaurant, openly aimed at acquiring three stars (not yet done), Jean-François Piège and his wife also opened Clover, this tiny little bistro hidden on a St-Germain side street, which i can’t help but feel is his most personal restaurant yet. Essentially a long corridor, a tiny open kitchen takes up the back half, a banquette and line of tables the front, with a subtle mix between rustic — the slice of tree trunk board on which a starter of pâté, pickle and sauccisson are presented – and urban sophistication. But the wow factor for me came from the scallop cooked on a hot stone pavé (one of those stone cubes thrown by students in the May 1968 « revolution »), brought sizzling to the table, which even gives you the option of whether to take it off straight away or let it continue cooking for a while, the sort of thing you simply can’t imagine him ever daring to present to diners at his grander and pricier establishment.
Address: 5 rue Perronet, 75007, Paris Contact: 00331 75 50 00 05; clover-paris.com Getting there: Metro St-Germain-des-Prés Opening times: Tue-Sat 12.30-2pm, 7.30-10pm Price: lunch menu €32; dinner menu €60 Payment type: credit cards accepted Cuisine: French Reservations: recommended