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"Je vais dans mon ardeur poétique et divine, mettre au rang des Beaux Arts celui de la cuisine" Joseph Berchoux

Clover

Clover, Paris
Clover, Paris

Between leaving Thoumieux and opening the ever-so-modestly named Le Grand Restaurant, openly aimed at acquiring three stars (not yet done), Jean-François Piège and his wife also opened Clover, this tiny little bistro hidden on a St-Germain side street, which i can’t help but feel is his most personal restaurant yet. Essentially a long corridor, a tiny open kitchen takes up the back half, a banquette and line of tables the front, with a subtle mix between rustic — the slice of tree trunk board on which a starter of pâté, pickle and sauccisson are presented – and urban sophistication. But the wow factor for me came from the scallop cooked on a hot stone pavé (one of those stone cubes thrown by students in the May 1968 « revolution »), brought sizzling to the table, which even gives you the option of whether to take it off straight away or let it continue cooking for a while, the sort of thing you simply can’t imagine him ever daring to present to diners at his grander and pricier establishment.

Address: 5 rue Perronet, 75007, Paris Contact: 00331 75 50 00 05; clover-paris.com Getting there: Metro St-Germain-des-Prés Opening times: Tue-Sat 12.30-2pm, 7.30-10pm Price: lunch menu €32; dinner menu €60 Payment type: credit cards accepted Cuisine: French Reservations: recommended

Clover

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